In my previous post, SYNTHESIS: Part 1, I shared part of my new work in the latest amirisu and DARUMA publication, Sublation DARUMA Collection 2021. In this post, I'll cover the remainder of my new designs that make up another mini collection within the collection, Spiral.

Just like the plaid texture I used in the Synthesis pieces, I started by developing a texture first and then began to play with ways it could be represented on the body. I proposed ideas for a hat, a pair of fingerless mitts and a sweater and since amirisu liked all three, we went from there.

Picture of DARUMA yarn. Photography by Masahiro Shimazaki for amirisu.

The three Spiral patterns feature an all over cable pattern, again I leaned in on an iconic look in British fashion. There are many gorgeous patterns already out there for a knitted pullover covered in classic cables, like the right twisting cable I used. However, I wanted something slightly different but still relatable. Since using embroidery to completely change and achieve the finished look for my “plaid” pieces, I knew that I wanted to use two different yarns again to manipulate the overall look of the pieces.

I decided to use Genmou because it has a beautiful open twist but still gives lots of stitch definition which I needed for cables. From the original box I was sent for swatching, I instantly fell in love with the lush feel of Silk Mohair. I’ve been blending mohair into a lot of designs and personal projects lately to get that fuzzy, muted look. However, this time around I was interested to see if I could use the Silk Mohair to help give more definition to the cables instead of hazy finish.

Let’s get into the cable texture and I’ll explain how it works. I’ve seen patterns combine stranded colour work and cables into one design but they are often two distinct sections. Here, I’ve blended colour work and cables into the one texture. While you are working the right twisting cables in Genmou, you will also carry a second strand of Silk Mohair. Both yarns are used together when purling in-between the cables but only Genmou will be used in the actual cable. This will create floats of Silk Mohair on the wrong side of the fabric.

My first swatch can be seen above but I did make one change when I started the sweater. Instead of using the fisherman’s ribbing from my swatch, I went with a regular 1x1 ribbing instead. For my green swatch I used Genmou in the colour Green #15 with a black mohair silk blend from my stash.

Spiral swatch with views from the right side and wrong side of the fabric.

Above you’ll see a second swatch. This was my gauge swatch before starting the hat and fingerless mitts. I’ve turned the swatch inside out so you can see the floats of Silk Mohair. In this swatch I used Genmou Pink #12 and Silk Mohair Beige #2.

Original sketches of Spiral Hat and Fingerless Mitts.

As for the designs, first up is a matching set including my Spiral Hat and Fingerless Mitts. Both items feature 1x1 ribbing for the brim and cuffs and then the cable pattern. The hat is worked in the round and finished off with a pompom. The fingerless mitts are also worked in the round, while increasing for a thumb gusset. Once the mitts are finished the thumb is picked up and worked in the round.

The last design is my Spiral Sweater, a dropped shoulder cable pullover with a relaxed fit. It is worked in the round from the bottom up, once the armholes are reached the front and back are worked flat and separately. After the shoulders are seamed together, the sleeves are picked up from the armholes and knit in the round. The pullover is finished off with a folded neckband. Again, I added small welts to the front and back to divide the two textures, cables and ribbing. You’ll also see them on the cuffs. I wanted to tie the sweaters from my two mini collections together with one common detail. The welts are only worked in Genmou while the hem, collar and cuffs are worked with both yarns held together.

Once again, amirisu took their time to knit up several different swatches to give you some inspirations for colour combinations. Take a look at their samples below, I’ll also include a link to their collections of swatches, here. You can go for a subtle look like the top right sample, blending a cream with a beige mohair. Or pick two colours with more contrast, like the bottom left sample, yellow blended with a olive green mohair. There are plenty of options and I can’t wait to see what two colours you choose.

Genmou and Silk Mohair swatches by amirisu.

I am absolutely delighted with how the Spiral Sweater turned out. The feel of the finished fabric is lush and I haven’t been able to stop thinking about this one since sending it to Japan. It’s one I need to knit for myself and just need to decide on the colours. As for the hat and fingerless mitts, this was my first time working a sample knitter, where I did not knit the complete design first. I knit several swatches to get each section of increasing and decreasing right in order to write the patterns. However, amirisu’s sample knitter brought my instructions to life and each piece is exactly what I envisioned!

Before I leave you with the details and photos of each Spiral design, I thought I would share some of Alice Caetano’s work in Sublation. I am especially in love with Embrace, a long open vest. I think this would be a versatile piece in my wardrobe. To see the whole collection together, click here. Sublation is available from amirisu’s international website and their Japanese website as well.

Picture of Embrace Vest by Alice Caetano. Photography by Masahiro Shimazaki for amirisu.

SPIRAL Hat Details
Yarn
DK weight yarn
(MC) Approximately 200 (220) yards / 180 (195) m
DARUMA GENMOU (100% Merino Wool; 165 yards / 151 m, 50g)

Lace weight yarn
(CC) Approximately 130 (145) yards / 120 (130) m
DARUMA Silk Mohair (60% Mohair, 40% Silk; 328 yards / 300 m, 25g)
Sample is shown in GENMOU #13 (MC) 2 (2) balls paired with Silk Mohair #7 (CC) 1 (1) balls

Needles
A US 6 (4 mm) 16” / 40 cm circular needle
A US 7 (4.5 mm) 16” / 40 cm circular needle A set of US 7 (4.5 mm) DPNs
Or, needles required to obtain gauge

Gauge (after blocking)
26 stitches & 28 rounds = 4” / 10 cm in Cable Pattern in the round with US 7 (4.5 mm) needle (MC and CC)
26 stitches & 32 rounds = 4” / 10 cm in 1x1 rib (unstretched) in the round with US 6 (4 mm) needle (MC and CC held together)

Sizes
Finished measurements: S (L) = 18 (19 1⁄2)” / 45.5 (49.5) cm circumference
Depth with brim folded up: 9” / 23 cm The sample is in size S on a model.

Tools
Stitch marker (1), cable needle, tapestry needle, 2 1⁄2” / 6.5 cm, pompom marker

To view Spiral Hat on Ravelry, click here.

Picture of Spiral Hat and Fingerless Mitts. Photography by Masahiro Shimazaki for amirisu.

SPIRAL Fingerless Mitts Details
Yarn
DK weight yarn
(MC) Approximately 120 (155) yards / 110 (140) m
DARUMA GENMOU (100% Merino Wool; 165 yards / 151 m, 50g)

Lace weight yarn
(CC) Approximately 75 (95) yards / 70 (90) m
DARUMA Silk Mohair (60% Mohair, 40% Silk; 328 yards / 300 m, 25g)
Sample is shown in GENMOU #13 (MC) 1 (1) balls paired with Silk Mohair #7 (CC) 1 (1) balls

Needles
A set of US 6 (4 mm) DPNs
A set of US 7 (4.5 mm) DPNs
Or, needles required to obtain gauge

Gauge (after blocking)
26 stitches & 28 rows = 4” / 10 cm in Cable Pattern in the round with US 7 (4.5 mm) needle (MC and CC)
26 stitches & 32 rows = 4” / 10 cm in 1x1 rib (unstretched) in the round with US 6 (4 mm) needle (MC and CC held together)

Sizes
Finished Measurements: S (L) = 7 (8 1⁄4)” / 18 (21) cm hand circumference
Length: 71⁄2 (8)” / 19 (20.5) cm Model is shown wearing size S.

Tools
Stitch markers (3), cable needle, tapestry needle

To view Spiral Fingerless Mitts on Ravelry, click here.

SPIRAL Sweater Details Yarn
DK weight yarn
(MC) Approximately 1065 (1170, 1290, 1425, 1565) (1725, 1895, 2080, 2285, 2515) yards / 975 (1070, 1180, 1300, 1430) (1575, 1730, 1900, 2090, 2300) m
DARUMA GENMOU (100% Merino Wool; 165 yards / 151 m, 50g)

Lace weight yarn
(CC) Approximately 705 (775, 855, 940, 1035) (1140, 1245, 1370, 1505, 1640) yards / 645 (710, 780, 860, 945) (1040, 1140, 1250, 1375, 1500) m
DARUMA Silk Mohair (60% Mohair, 40% Silk; 328 yards / 300 m, 25g)
Sample is shown in GENMOU #15 (MC) 7 (8, 8, 9, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14, 16) balls paired with Silk Mohair #7 (CC) 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) balls

Needles
A US 5 (3.75 mm) 32” / 80 cm circular needle A US 6 (4 mm) 32” / 80 cm circular needle
A US 7 (4.5 mm) 32” / 80 cm circular needle Or, needles required to obtain gauge

Tools
Locking stitch markers (2), cable needle, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle

Gauge (after blocking)
26 stitches & 28 rows = 4” / 10 cm in Cable Pattern in the round with US 7 (4.5 mm) needle (MC and CC)
26 stitches & 30 rows = 4” / 10 cm in 1x1 rib (unstretched) in the round with US 6 (4 mm) needle (MC and CC held together)

Sizes
Finished Bust Measurements: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL, 6XL) = 41 1⁄2 (44 1⁄2, 47 3⁄4, 50 3⁄4, 53 3⁄4) (57, 60, 63, 66 1⁄4, 69 1⁄4)” / 105.5 (113, 121.5, 129, 136.5) (144.5, 152.5, 160, 168.5, 176) cm
The sample is in size S on a 5’ 5” / 165 cm tall model with 141⁄4” / 36 cm positive ease at bust.

To view Spiral Sweater on Ravelry, click here.